La Casa di Montebello

Non Sai tu che tu se' in cielo? E cio che ci si fa vien da buon zello!
(Do you not realize that you are in Heaven…?)
-- Beatrice to Dante, at his journey's end, and engraved on stone beneath the fireplace in La Casa di Montebello

La Casa di Montebello is a 17th century farmhouse nestled among acres of olive trees in the foothills ('colline') of Montebello, one of the magnificent mountains forming the spine of the Apuane Alps which rise majestically along the Versilia Riviera – the Mediterannean coastline of northwest Tuscany. 'La Casa' was purchased in 1989 and renovated over a period of one year by a noted local architect who takes only restoration commissions no later than the 18th century. He altered the space to provide for modern, practical convenience taking great care to use, wherever possible, all original materials - tiles, stone, iron work and wood beams. The house has been furnished, decorated and fully appointed in 'Tuscan style.'

The house is located at the end of a long narrow road winding gradually upward the side of 'Montebello' through a series of terraced olive groves. It was constructed originally as a farmhouse for a local farmer whose sheep and olive oil supplied the 'fratelli' or brothers of the local monastery who belonged to the Church of San Frediano in nearby Lucca. No doubt the farmer kept his sheep on the first floor and occupied the floors above.

From the side of 'Montebello' the house overlooks, in the distance, the small village ('piccolo paese') of Camaiore, which dates back to the time of the Caesars when it was a Roman camp ('campus majorus') for the Felix Division of Rome's legions, before they plunged North into Gaul and Germania in their attempt to extend the influence of Rome into Northern Europe. Five hundred years later the path forged by Caesar's legions was reversed and used by religious pilgrims, as they journeyed South to find solace in God's grace, manifest in Rome, the brightest star of Europe's religious constellation. This time Camaiore and the neighboring town of Pietrasanta were the stopping points for rest and prayer along the road which became known as 'the Via Francigena'.

'La Casa' has four levels, or floors, connected by a stone staircase. The entire top floor is large, gracious living room ('salotto') with a wood burning fireplace. The room has spectacular views of Camaiore below and across the valley. Local legend suggests that the house was built directly on the 'ley-line' of Camaiore's oldest chuch, the magnificent, ancient Badia which dates back to the 10th century. To view the Badia directly below on a clear night bestows on the viewer a marvelous sense of the local history and a peaceful, joyous tranquility.

Below the living room are two bedrooms and a full bath. Here also are wonderful views of the valley. From this floor there is access to the outside, or mountain side of the house. This, in fact, is the original main door the house and often it is convenient to take luggage in and out through this door.

On the next level is a large kitchen and dining room with fireplace, a half-bath, and wonderful views over the valley. From the kitchen there is side access to the outside, and steps to an upper and lower terrace. The door to the kitchen is the one generally most convenient to enter and leave the house.

Beneath the kitchen and dining room is the first floor which includes a third bedroom and full bath along with a 'piccolo salotto' or sitting area (convertible small bedroom). From this floor there are doors from both the bedroom and sitting area to a lower, lushly planted terrace which also has a lovely view over the valley of Camaiore.

'La Casa' will accommodate comfortably up to six or seven guests – three couples or combination adults and children. Two people can occupy the house and not see each other; with six or more the men may have to wait for the ladies.

'La Casa' is within the small commune of Camaiore which itself is contained by the province of Lucca, the nearby city of that name being one of the grandest 'untouched' and intact 'walled' medieval cities of all Italy. Lucca is as aristocratic and charming as an Italian city can get – small enough to be comfortable and large enough to be interesting - always wonderful to visit! As it had avoided the invading armies of the 13th and 14th centuries, it has managed to avoid the many tourists who overrun Florence in mid-Summer.

The town of Camaiore remains somewhat isolated geographically. It retains the familiar ambience of an older Italy, akin to that portrayed in the films of Fellini where the daily life of small, working Italian towns was the universe for its inhabitants. Although Camaiore today appears to be thriving, you still sense the strength of family life and values.

And not far from Camaiore - 40 miles - is the door to the Rennaissance - always marvelous Florence!

The Mediterannean sea and the coast line known as the Versilia Riviera is within a few miles, and if Camaiore hearkens back to the Italy of yore, then the nearby seaside jewel of Forte dei Marmi is the magnet for the new and fashionable - reachable in 20 minutes. Forte is considered to be the most exclusive resort town in all of Italy – the 'last bastion of Italian aristocracy.' Here the Italian magnates from the north come with their families to spend holidays by the sea. At the Wednesday market in Summer ('Estate') one is apt to run into Giorgio Armani or the Agnellis – and if you don't see them there, perhaps you will later at Ristorante Lorenzo.

Camaiore's sister village of Pietrasanta is just north over the mountain – less than 15 minutes by auto. It is one of the most beautiful, original villages in Italy, a Florence in miniature, and the home of Michaelangeo. He walked the trails and quarries in nearby Seravezza to find the uniquely white Carrara marble for his sculpture (the village of Carrara is next to Pietrasanta). One can still follow the 'Michaelangelo Trail' up Monte Antico and along a branch of the rushing Serra river, under cascading waterfalls and through mysterious grottos. In the silence of a hot summer day with only the clicking of cicadas, one eyes apprehensively the abundant and tangled growth along the bank, expecting Acteon and his demon dogs of ancient myth. In fact, for those who enjoy hiking, the many trails crossing the nearby Apuani mountains provide trekking opportunities every bit as challenging as the mountains of Switzerland. Gianni, who owns a local sporting goods and who belongs to the local hiking club, 'Amici di Montagne,' claims that anyone who experiences the local trails will never return to the beach! Hiking through the five villages of the nearby Cinque Terra has long been a rite of passage for college students on their first trip to Europe.

Michelangelo would send stone for sculpting to Florence by ox-cart, or to Rome by barge from the Lido di Pietrasanta. Pietrasanta ('sacred stone') is known for its many artists who draw on the powerful mystique of its remarkable history in art and famous artists who have worked and lived there. World famous artists including Botero and Mitorai are permanent residents. A late afternoon stroll through the back streets of Pietrasanta will sometimes allow one a peek at some of the world's great artists at work in their ateliers.

One can travel a short distance up the coast to any one of many small seaports or fishing villages – Lerici, Porto Venere, Tellaro or the towns of the Cinque Terra – redolent all with the ghostly presence of Keats, Byron and Shelley. In fact, Shelley's body washed up on the Lido di Camaiore and was burned there on a funeral pyre, an ironically appropriate end to one of England's greatest romantic poets! Farther up the coast, Portofino and San Marguerita di Ligure are possible destinations for a leisurely lunch, perhaps at The Splendido!

In the other direction one has access to Venice by driving only a few kilometers to Viareggio, a wonderful 19th century port where on can board the 9AM local train to Florence and, upon arrival, move across the platform and take the 10AM 'Eurostar' to Venice. After two stops ( Bologna and Prato ) and a brief nap, you will arrive at Centro Stazione, Venezia in time for lunch! Viareggio should not be missed on its own count, however. At the turn of the century it was the center-piece of Italy's 'cote d'azure', reminiscent of 'old Nice'. Now its 'Liberty period' architecture is but a faded and somewhat decadent reminder of that once grand time but it exudes still a compelling charm of days gone by. Should one ever wish to disappear or to go 'on the lam,' Viareggio is the place. Also, within reasonable driving distance are Pisa, Siena, and the wonderful hill towns and the villages of Chianti.

A principal benefit of 'La Casa's' location is that within a short radius one has access to the best of Tuscany, historically and gastronomically. One can time-travel between new and old Italy - the sophistication of Forte dei Marmi and the peasant villages of the wild and mysterious mountainous district of the Garfagnana. The restaurants of the area are uniformly wonderful. Most are family run; if wife ('moglie') is in the kitchen, husband ('marito') is in dining room or vice versa. It is great to be able to choose between the stylish, 'upscale' 'Bistrot', 'Lorenzo' or 'Madeo' in Forte dei Marmi and 'Ceru' with vistas of the entire coastline from the top of a mountain in the lost village of Gombitelli. It is wonderful to try, as well, the small restaurants with splendid sea views in the nearby hill villages of Monteggiori (Camaiore) or Capezano Monte (Pietrasanta) – but first practice your driving for 'hair-pin' turns!

And, just a few kilometers in from the sea, the absolutely splendid seafood of the coast is supplanted by an emphasis on grilled meats ('stinco di maiale' and 'bistecca fiorentina') and meat based pastas.

A short distance north to where Tuscany becomes Liguria, the food and architecture absorb the influence of the French.

Each of the four seasons – Primavera, Estate, Autumno, Inverno – is a siren to return to this Special Place! Always we remember the powerfully verdant Spring, the sensuous warmth of Summer with sea and mountain breezes fragrant with the scent of lavender and rosemary, the harvests of Fall, and the special celebrations of Winter.

It is told that Dante's exile took him to these Tuscan hills. Perhaps it was here, as he passed the 'Badia', in the shadow of Montebello, he encountered the muse of Beatrice.